Pierre Balmain -- From Lace...

Pierre Balmain grew up in a fashionable world. He spent much of his childhood helping his mother and 2 aunts in their small fashion boutique, Galeries Parisiennes. In 1933, while studying at the École des Beaux-Arts, he began freelance drawing work for famed designer Robert Piguet. In 1934, he wouldn't take no for an answer and was able to secure a position in the house of Molyneux. From there he joined the esteemed Lucien Lelong, working alongside the young Christian Dior. The two respected each other greatly and were set to form their own joint fashion house. Life intervened for Dior so Balmain set out on his own, creating the house of Pierre Balmain in 1945. The first collection was set to be unveiled on October 12, 1945. After carefully selecting the date, Balmain was horrified to discover Madame Gres had postponed her show to the same date. He picked up the phone and called her personally.

"'Madame,' he told her, 'I am a beginner, and I have no money. I have sent out my invitations and I cannot afford to send telegrams everywhere to cancel them. You were supposed to have your showing last week: could you possibly select another date?'

'Of course,' she said at once."

Thanks in part to the kindness of Madame Gres, that first show was a roaring success. Balmain's demure style -- sophisticated, elegant, refined + tasteful -- earned him a devout clientele. Throughout the seasons, his exploration of fabrics + forms while staying true to his fashion ideal earned him a spot in the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture + secured him an eternal place in fashion history.

Pierre Balmain, 1949


Gertrude Stein at the Balmain salon, 1947


Pierre Balmain salon, 1954

Throughout the 1950s, Balmain continuously explored the striking silhouette of a train + the contrasts of lace with silks + furs.

Lace gown with fur trimmed coat, L'Art et la Mode 1951


Star brooch strapless gown with train, 1951


Beaded silk satin gown with train, 1952


1950s beaded lace gown with silk sash/train


Marilyn Monroe in a nearly identical gown by William Travilla
getting ready for the 1953 premiere of How to Marry a Millionaire


Lace halter gown, 1952 | Plunging lace gown with fur trimmed coat, L'Officiel 1952


1954 white lace gown with black sash


Floral lace gown, 1953 | Floral silk satin strapless gown with massive train, 1953


1950s train back gown | 1954 illustration of train back gown


1953 lace gown with bustle-back train, Metropolitan Museum of Art


1952 silk gown with train, Kent State Museum

Understanding the potential of the international market, Balmain traveled extensively, eventually opening boutiques around the world. He opened his first US boutique in New York City in 1949. While extremely successful, the boutique lasted a mere 4 years.

1953 Pierre Balmain New York ad in L'Officiel

We are pleased to offer this stunning example of Pierre Balmain demi-couture from that NYC boutique.

There is no other way to describe this gown other than to simply call it dreamy. Layers of varying shades of pink silk and lace in addition to its long silk train make this a truly timeless and wearable find! It is extremely rare to find this particular New York/Paris label. We were told by the original owner that this dress purchased in the NYC boutique for her debut in 1952.

The gown itself features a strapless sweetheart neckline with scalloped edges and gathered "modesty" panel in the bust with slinky fitted skirt and flared mermaid hem. Made entirely from pale blush colored lace with rose colored backing and pale petal pink attached silk train. The attached gathered sash leads to a magnanimous cascading silk train that drags the ground. The train also has a small finger strap hidden beneath so that it can be carried when walking (or more importantly, dancing). Also includes the matching leather backed, lace belt and bolero.


Available at http://www.bustownmodern.com or by calling the store at 323.951.0290.


Click HERE for part 2 of this blog post, Pierre Balmain -- ...to Lesage