7.08.2015

Pierre Balmain -- ...to Lesage

Lesage embroidery

Founded in 1924, the House of Lesage transformed embroidery + beadwork into an art form. Virtually every couturier from Schiaparelli to Valentino has relied on the masterwork of Lesage to adorn their creations -- Pierre Balmain was no exception. Balmain used Lesage embroidery + beading on a multitude of pieces throughout his career, transforming already incredible pieces into true works of wearable art.


Pierre Balmain 1953 embroidered gown Metropolitan Museum of Art
1953 embroidered gown, Metropolitan Museum of Art

1953 Pierre Balmain black velvet embroidered gown Sothebys auction house
1953 black velvet Lesage embroidered gown, Sotheby's auction house

1954 black velvet embellished gown LOfficiel
Black velvet embellished gown, L'Officiel 1954

Pierre Balmain and his models in Hamburg Germany 1955
Pierre Balmain + his models in Hamburg, 1955


Silk embroidered gown, L'Officiel 1955

Pierre Balmain black embroidered gown LOfficiel 1954
Embroidered gown, L'Officiel 1955

1955 Pierre Balmain black velvet holly embroidered gown Lofficiel
Black velvet embroidered holly gown, L'Officiel 1955. The ultimate holiday dress!

1955 Pierre Balmain Lesage embroidered gown and matching coat
Lesage embroidered gown + matching coat, 1955

1955 Pierre Balmain Lesage embroidered gown and matching coat
Lesage embroidered + beaded gown + matching coat, 1955

1956 Pierre Balmain embroidered gown Metropolitan Museum of Art
1956 embroidered gown, Metropolitan Museum of Art

1955 Pierre Balmain Taglioni lesage embellished silk gown Lofficiel
Taglioni Lesage embellished gown, L'Officiel 1955

1955 Pierre Balmain Taglioni lesage embellished silk gown Palais Galliera
1955 Taglioni Lesage embellished gown, collection of the Palais Galliera


Les Annees 50 exhibit at the Palais Galliera 2014
Entry hall to Les Annees 50: La Mode en France 1947-1957 exhibit at the Palais Galliera, 2014

In 2014, the Palais Galliera, the Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris unveiled an exhibition entitled Les Annees 50: La Mode en France 1947-1957. The exhibition explored the "decisive period for French haute couture" + featured a who's who of fashion history. Among the highlights was a spectacular example from Pierre Balmain, a Lesage embroidered velvet gown from A/W 1957 entitled Solveig.

Pierre Balmain gowns at Les Annees 50 exhibit at the Palais Galliera 2014
Balmain gowns (including Solveig) at the Les Annees 50 exhibit at the Palais Galliera, 2014

Pierre Balmain 1957 Haute Couture Solveig Dress
Solveig, Lesage embroidered gown, A/W 1957. From Pierre Balmain: 40 années de création, 1985

Pierre Balmain 1957 Haute Couture Solveig Dress
Solveig, Lesage embroidered gown, A/W 1957. From Pierre Balmain: 40 années de création, 1985

Pierre Balmain 1957 Haute Couture Solveig Dress
Solveig excerpt from Pierre Balmain: 40 années de création, 1985


Translation:
Solveig - Fall-Winter 1957-1958 (# 401) short dress of black velvet bodice has decollete - straps and full skirt: Lesage embroidery: light gray silk chenille, blue and white silk, turquoise ribbon, silver wire and beads contain floral garlands used by naiads - Paris, MMC, Palais Galliera, gift of the Society of Costume History - 1983


We are humbled to be able to offer you this rare + heart-stopping Pierre Balmain Solveig couture gown from F/W 1957. A museum worthy find + a true work of fashion art.

1957 Pierre Balmain Haute Couture Cocktail Dress with Lesage Embroidery
1957 Pierre Balmain Haute Couture Cocktail Dress with Lesage Embroidery
1957 Pierre Balmain Haute Couture Cocktail Dress with Lesage Embroidery
1957 Pierre Balmain Haute Couture Cocktail Dress with Lesage Embroidery
1957 Pierre Balmain Haute Couture Cocktail Dress with Lesage Embroidery
1957 Pierre Balmain Haute Couture Cocktail Dress with Lesage Embroidery
1957 Pierre Balmain Haute Couture Cocktail Dress with Lesage Embroidery

As rare as it is gorgeous, our museum worthy (and well documented) A/W 1957 Pierre Balmain haute couture cocktail dress (titled Solveig) will surely be the apple of any collector’s eye. We are so in love with this little frock - even our photos just can’t do it justice! Classic New Look silhouette with strapless sweetheart neckline, nipped waist and full skirt. Jet black silk velvet is the perfect contrasting backdrop for the pale, finely hand embroidered and beaded florals by Maison Lesage. Also includes the most adorable tiered mesh and silk crinoline. Clustered bouquets of delicate silk ribbon embroidery are meshed with pale celadon, metallic silver and ivory embroidered and beaded leaves whilst the tiniest single blooms float whimsically throughout the dress. While looking closely at the embroidery makes us swoon, our favorite part is that each individual flower is its own unique self - no two are exactly alike!

Absolutely pristine condition - truly looks unworn. Please feel free to email for more photos, including interior construction, embroidery details and photos of the crinoline.


Available at http://www.bustownmodern.com or by calling the store at 323.951.0290.



Marthe Simard


The dress was originally purchased by Marthe Simard, a Canadian politician, a pioneer of international women's rights + a deeply involved member of the Free France resistance movement during WWII. The dress was created for Simard's only daughter Yahne Bastenti + was worn to a soiree in Simard's honor, quite possibly her wedding as she was remarried in 1957. The dress was purchased directly from a family descendent.

Marthe Simard and her daughter Yahne Bastenti in 1941



Click HERE for part 1 of this blog post, Pierre Balmain -- From Lace...

Pierre Balmain -- From Lace...

Pierre Balmain grew up in a fashionable world. He spent much of his childhood helping his mother and 2 aunts in their small fashion boutique, Galeries Parisiennes. In 1933, while studying at the École des Beaux-Arts, he began freelance drawing work for famed designer Robert Piguet. In 1934, he wouldn't take no for an answer and was able to secure a position in the house of Molyneux. From there he joined the esteemed Lucien Lelong, working alongside the young Christian Dior. The two respected each other greatly and were set to form their own joint fashion house. Life intervened for Dior so Balmain set out on his own, creating the house of Pierre Balmain in 1945. The first collection was set to be unveiled on October 12, 1945. After carefully selecting the date, Balmain was horrified to discover Madame Gres had postponed her show to the same date. He picked up the phone and called her personally.
"'Madame,' he told her, 'I am a beginner, and I have no money. I have sent out my invitations and I cannot afford to send telegrams everywhere to cancel them. You were supposed to have your showing last week: could you possibly select another date?'
'Of course,' she said at once."

Thanks in part to the kindness of Madame Gres, that first show was a roaring success. Balmain's demure style -- sophisticated, elegant, refined + tasteful -- earned him a devout clientele. Throughout the seasons, his exploration of fabrics + forms while staying true to his fashion ideal earned him a spot in the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture + secured him an eternal place in fashion history.


Pierre Balmain potrait 1949
Pierre Balmain, 1949

Gertrude Stein at the Pierre Balmain salon 1947
Gertrude Stein at the Balmain salon, 1947

Pierre Balmain salon 1954
Pierre Balmain salon, 1954


Throughout the 1950s, Balmain continuously explored the striking silhouette of a train + the contrasts of lace with silks + furs.

Pierre Balmain lace gown with fur trimmed coat L Art et la Mode 1951
Lace gown with fur trimmed coat, L'Art et la Mode 1951

Pierre Balmain star brooch strapless gown with train 1951
Star brooch strapless gown with train, 1951

Pierre Balmain beaded silk satin gown with train 1952
Beaded silk satin gown with train, 1952

Pierre Balmain 1950s beaded lace gown with silk sash train
1950s beaded lace gown with silk sash/train

1953 Marilyn Monroe in a William Travilla gown
Marilyn Monroe in a nearly identical gown by William Travilla
getting ready for the 1953 premiere of How to Marry a Millionaire

Pierre Balmain lace halter gown 1952 Pierre Balmain plunging lace gown with fur trimmed coat LOfficiel 1952
Lace halter gown, 1952 | Plunging lace gown with fur trimmed coat, L'Officiel 1952

Pierre Balmain white lace gown with black sash 1954
1954 white lace gown with black sash

Pierre Balmain floral lace gown 1953 Pierre Balmain Floral silk satin strapless gown with massive train 1953
Floral lace gown, 1953 | Floral silk satin strapless gown with massive train, 1953

Pierre Balmain floral lace gown 1953 Pierre Balmain Floral silk satin strapless gown with massive train 1953
1950s train back gown | 1954 illustration of train back gown

1953 Pierre Balmain lace gown with bustle back train Metropolitan Museum of Art 1953 Pierre Balmain lace gown with bustle back train Metropolitan Museum of Art
1953 lace gown with bustle-back train, Metropolitan Museum of Art

1952 Pierre Balmain silk gown with train Kent State Museum 1952 Pierre Balmain silk gown with train Kent State Museum
1952 silk gown with train, Kent State Museum



Understanding the potential of the international market, Balmain traveled extensively, eventually opening boutiques around the world. He opened his first US boutique in New York City in 1949. While extremely successful, the boutique lasted a mere 4 years.

1953 Pierre Balmain New York magazine ad
1953 Pierre Balmain New York ad in L'Officiel


We are pleased to offer this stunning example of Pierre Balmain demi-couture from that NYC boutique.


circa 1952 Pierre Balmain Demi Couture Lace Evening Gown with Train
circa 1952 Pierre Balmain Demi Couture Lace Evening Gown with Train
circa 1952 Pierre Balmain Demi Couture Lace Evening Gown with Train
circa 1952 Pierre Balmain Demi Couture Lace Evening Gown with Train
circa 1952 Pierre Balmain Demi Couture Lace Evening Gown with Train
circa 1952 Pierre Balmain Demi Couture Lace Evening Gown with Train
circa 1952 Pierre Balmain Demi Couture Lace Evening Gown with Train

There is no other way to describe this gown other than to simply call it dreamy. Layers of varying shades of pink silk and lace in addition to its long silk train make this a truly timeless and wearable find! It is extremely rare to find this particular New York/Paris label. We were told by the original owner that this dress purchased in the NYC boutique for her debut in 1952.

The gown itself features a strapless sweetheart neckline with scalloped edges and gathered "modesty" panel in the bust with slinky fitted skirt and flared mermaid hem. Made entirely from pale blush colored lace with rose colored backing and pale petal pink attached silk train. The attached gathered sash leads to a magnanimous cascading silk train that drags the ground. The train also has a small finger strap hidden beneath so that it can be carried when walking (or more importantly, dancing). Also includes the matching leather backed, lace belt and bolero.


Available at http://www.bustownmodern.com or by calling the store at 323.951.0290.


Click HERE for part 2 of this blog post, Pierre Balmain -- ...to Lesage